Taking The Pilgrims Home, Part 2 .. Establishing Relationships with the Women

"Why would the desert reveal such things to a stranger, when it knows that we have been here for generations?" said another of the cheiftains. "Because my eyes are not yet accustomed to the desert," the boy said, "I can see things that eyes habituated to the desert might not see." "And also, because I know The Soul of the World" he thought to hmself. The Alchemist.

I am falling behind on these entries as so much is happening, but before getting up to date, I want to share some of my experiences with the Wirrarica women during the pilgrimage.

I was sitting in the van in Wadley, waiting for the group of pilgrims who had gone into the local stores to buy tortillas and refrescos, when Maria, the mother of Masauke's goddaughter's future husband, came up to talk to Masauke. I was introduced to her and she was the one who had commented happily that I was wearing one of their outfits. This was my first encounter with the women pilgrims, though I had already met several Wira women in Real and Matehuala, where many indigenous people go to sell their wares. I had supported as many of the women as I could by buying some of their art and beadwork, but had not been able to converse much with them as their lives, their health and their traditional medicines, as these were working women.

The other two pilgrim women were busily organizing things in the back of the pick up truck that they, along with a couple of male pilgrims and many baskets of personal effects, were travelling. Many of the men came over to talk with Masauke and were introduced to me, or vice versa. I had not been fully briefed on the protocal for interacting with the pilgrims, so I did not go up to talk with the other women, but mostly spent the time observing the pilgrims, who at that time were very new to me.

When we had delivered the pilgrims to their campsite near Santa Margaritas, the women and men had been equally involved in the harvesting of wood for the sacred fires, the lighting and greeting and of the fires and in setting up their individual sleeping area. I had observed from outside of the circle of pilgrims so as not to get drawn in to the energies of the fire and other sacred objects they were working with and to become amarrado or tied to the fire, which would require me to complete a 5 year cycle of pilgrimages, something Masauke had recommended I not do for a number of reasons.

The next time I met the pilgrims again was the morning when we went to pick them up to take them back to Mesquetic. Masauke knew that I wanted to interact withteh women so he had invited 2 of the women to travel in the van. The third woman was travelling with her husband. As this was the last, fifth year of the pilgrimage, the family of the pilgrims were able to accompany them on their journey. As well as this woman pilgrim's husband, the accompanying family members included a 5 year old Wira boy, who slept outside in the coooold weather as though it were nothing.

The second pilgrim travelling in our van, whose English name was also Maria, did not acknowledge me when she entered the van. but went to sit in the far corner with her son, who was one of the first time pilgrims. I had been told that she was one of Matsua's wives. Matsua, a very striking man, who appeared to be not much older than me, in his late 40's early 50', was the Captain of the pilgrimage. This was his second five year obligation. I was told that he was the only person who knew all the intricacies of everything that the pilgrims had to do during their journey.

She would later reprimand me in a firm but very gentle way, for not having greeted her and would let me know that with Tewaris, non Wira people, she only greeted those who greeted her. She would also let me know that she was also a student of Matsua and had spent the past 5 years of her 'cargo' or position, learning the traditions from him. At one of the later stops on the trip, the two Maria's were to bless me and present me to the altar where the rain was born, and ask Matsua to bless and present me as well.

From my perspective as an outsider, a Tewari and a westerner, the women seemed quite shy and not as involved but this was my western mind judging something about which I knew nothing. I would find out that in all crucial matters of coming before the Spirit it is the women who come to present the men. I am told that the spirits had mothers and are partial to the women's requests. Grandmothers are used for the delivery of all sacred offerings. Maria, who is the wife that travels with Matsua during any sacred outing, is the only one who blesses Matsua, who is the head shaman, the chief mericami. She is allowed for this purpose to handle and use the sacred mask of the deer, a right reserved only for a shaman. I have been told several times that, at this level there is no gender - a shaman is a shaman, and a pilgrim is a pilgrim.

I spent as much time as I could talking to the women whenever possible. Their quiet, strong, reserved energy reminded me of my mother's energy. Maria,the wife of Matsua, bears a surprizing resemblance to the women of my family, my mother, mu aunt Melli, who have a beautiful mixture of African, Indigenous and Europpean ancestors. Except for my hair, which they call 'muy china', or very curly, my colouring and features is also very similar to theirs. Maybe this was another reason for our connection.

At one of the stops I bought one of the Maria's a steak dinner, while Masauke paid for the dinner of the other and two of the men. Before we left I gave each of the women 120 pesos and a bracelet as one of them had commented on the bracelet I was wearing. It was a small gesture but it meant a lot to them . The shyest of the three women, whose name I was told, but dont remember, made a point of walking over in my direction to use the facilities, just as I was learving so that we could say goodbye. They all invited me to come to their village and see the final part of the ceremony and to see how theiy live. It is my plan to go.

Lessons learned: 1) Small gestures can have big results, 2) As we give so shall we receive, 3) There is so much that humanity that joins us it is amazing that people concentrate on all the things that separate us.

staywell and Travel with Spirit, Spirit Traveller